Not every California city enchants like Carmel-by-the-Sea, a tiny enclave (population 3,104) on the Golden State’s central coast, about 120 miles south of San Francisco. Some of its whimsy is natural. Outside of the summer months, Carmel Beach is serene, dotted with driftwood and locals on windy walks with their dogs. The spectacular Monterey cypress thrives here, even on unwelcoming rocky terrain—no Carmel visit is complete without a stroll in the soft sand, where you can take in these native trees and the protected cove of Carmel Bay.
Then, there are the charming idiosyncrasies forged by mankind. There are no street lights in Carmel’s central village, historic storybook cottages hide in plain sight (check out the Cottage of Sweets on Ocean Avenue), and homes have no address numbers—by forgoing mail delivery, it’s believed Carmel’s founders hoped people would connect with one another as they made the trip to the central post office. There’s even a municipal ban on high heels, ostensibly to protect the wearer, given the town’s older walkways.
The heartbeat of Carmel-By-the-Sea is its quaint gridded village. Arrive ready to walk (in flats, of course), says Jack Galante, native Carmel resident, president of Galante Vineyards, and grandson of Carmel founder James Franklin Devendorf. Galante opened Carmel’s first-ever tasting room in 2004, and he’s still pouring today off of Dolores Street, between Ocean Avenue and Seventh Avenue.
“Carmel is a town to explore,” says Galante. “It's a place where you go up and down the alleys and corridors just to see what you can find. Simply wandering is the neatest thing to do here.”
And in those wanderings, here are a few places Galante hopes you discover.
Best Hotels & Resorts
The historic La Playa Hotel dates back to 1905; it underwent a $20-million renovation not too long ago, making now a great time to visit. It’s the hotel closest to the sand on this list, and there are 75 unique rooms and suites to choose from. “La Playa is a beautiful spot to stay,” says Galante. “And it has wonderful gardens—especially great if you're doing a nice event or a wedding.”
Le Petit Pali took over an old motor lodge on Ocean Avenue and brought it back to life with custom furnishings and stylish decor. There are 34 rooms here, all the downtown dining, wine tasting, and shopping visitors could want are just steps away. (There’s even a second Le Petit Pali on 8th Avenue, should you want to compare properties.)
Villa Mara is ideal for a romantic getaway in Carmel. Operating as a hotel since 1929, the property is set on a bluff and has just 16 rooms, but only for guests 21 and older. A private balcony and ocean views come with most accommodations.
The 42-room Stilwell Hotel opened in 2024 on San Carlos Street in downtown Carmel, so you’re a short walk to all of the town’s main attractions. Rooms and shared spaces are pretty and sophisticated; a glass of wine in the courtyard is a must.
Another intimate option, L’Auberge Carmel has just 20 rooms, plus easy village and beach access. Foodies will especially love that the hotel is home to Aubergine, a two Michelin-star restaurant that offers an ever-changing eight-course tasting menu.
Best Things to Do
Monterey County is a productive wine region, so sipping local varietals is a must. There are numerous tasting rooms right in Carmel (and a suggested Wine Walk), but you can also take a quick drive into Carmel Valley for tastings at venues like Folktale Winery & Vineyards and Cowgirl Winery.
A place as naturally beautiful as Carmel is bound to draw creatives. Naturally, the village is home to dozens of galleries showcasing art of all kinds. Visit on the second Saturday of the month to join the Carmel Art Walk and stroll with fellow art lovers. “Carmel is entrenched in the arts—it has been so ever since it was founded,” says Galante. “If you’re here for the day, be sure to go into an art gallery. And don’t be afraid to get off the beaten path—go down the side streets, go through the alleys, and find the little hidden gems.”
There’s minimal parking at this gorgeous preserve, but the seaside trails and tide pools here are more than worthy of setting a 7 a.m. alarm. Snag a spot for your vehicle early, then hit the dirt. The Cypress Grove Trail will reward you with incredible ocean vistas and time beneath towering Monterey cypress trees.
One of the best drives in the U.S., this route snakes around the Monterey Peninsula, delivering unbelievable views along the way. Carmel-by-the-Sea is its southern starting point; from there, you’ll drive north toward Monterey. The Lone Cypress (located in Pebble Beach) and Pebble Beach Golf Links are among the famous attractions you’ll pass.
There are so many natural wonders within Carmel Bay, and they’re protected within Carmel Bay State Marine Conservation Area; Carmel Beach, which most people access via the village’s Ocean Avenue, is adjacent to the underwater preserve. Bring some lunch and perhaps some toys to this stretch of white sand, and be on the lookout for marine life like otters, seals, and dolphins.
Best Restaurants
The Mediterranean fare and fun atmosphere at Dametra Cafe calls Galante back time and time again. The dinner menu at this local favorite includes everything from Lebanese baba ghanoush and Greek lamb shank to Italian frutti di mare.
Any morning of the year, you can expect a handful of locals at Village Corner, newspapers open and coffee set alongside a basket of freshly baked croissants. We recommend joining them for your morning meal–grab a patio seat if you’d like to people-watch while dining on banana pecan pancakes or a roasted veggie omelette. Lunch and dinner are served, too.
For fabulous traditional Italian, head to Cantinetta Luca, which Galante frequents. Family recipes line the menu here, and California produce and seafood brings them to life.
La Bicyclette Restaurant is another excellent option—it feels like you’re dining in a rustic Italian farmhouse, thanks to the homey wooden furnishings and pots and pans dangling from the walls. Order a pizza fresh from the wood-fired oven, a plate of Parisian gnocchi, and a salad of your choice.
Opened in 2018. Stationæry is an intimate cafe serving all-day brunch (think: avocado toast, lobster rolls, and spicy Mexican hot chocolate), plus lunch and dinner. Menu items change with the season, and allowing California’s bounty to sway things is always a good plan.
Best Time to Visit
While it’s beautiful here year-round, Galante says the best time to visit Carmel-by-the-Sea for fewer crowds is late fall and winter. Spring brings a few noteworthy events as well: the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event falls in April, the Carmel Art Festival happens in May, and the Carmel International Film Festival is held in October.
How to Get There
The largest nearby airports are San Francisco International Airport (SFO) and San Jose International Airport (SJC). From SFO, you’ll drive about two hours south to Carmel-by-the-Sea. Landing at SJC shaves off about 30 minutes from your drive. Monterey Regional Airport, meanwhile, is just 15 minutes away from town, but connectivity is limited.
How to Get Around
Once in the main village of Carmel-by-the-Sea, walking is recommended—it’s only one square mile, but that small area is so full of shops and cafes, it can easily fill a weekend. Galante says riding a bike is a fun way to explore, too. In order to visit Carmel Valley, see 17-mile Drive, visit Carmel Mission Basilica, or explore state parks outside of town, you’ll need a car.
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